Halloween is no joke in Tokyo. At the turn of October stores frantically bring out limited edition halloween merchandise, everything from spooky donuts to pumpkin themed entrees and drinks. The parades and cosplay commence early in the month, each area hosting its on variety of events over the weekend, but the biggest (and craziest) event of the season is Halloween night in Shibuya. Hoards of ghouls, gals, and guys flock to the infamous Scramble Crossing simply to walk around in their costumes!
I don't think I have ever witnessed such chaotic madness in my life. The sheer volume of people was incredible, it took me over 15minutes just to walk from my train platform to the exit of Shibuya Station! Once outside you'd notice as far as the eye can see the masses of people sprawled down every avenue and street of Shibuya. Since I use a standard 18-55mm lens it was difficult to capture extent to which the area was bursting with life (I need to invest in a wider lens!).
The popular "Scramble Crossing" itself was a mission to navigate. Rows of police officers armed with lines of caution tape would, as if dancing in perfect tune, move to direct and contain the flow of traffic with the change of light signals. While others were perched upon the balcony of the Koban (police office) keeping a close eye on all the madness bellow.
It's surreal to find a small unoccupied corner from which you can just watch the ebb and flow of people. After gazing in awe for a few moment I made my way down the crossing into the heart of the madness. Along the street everyone from vampires to princesses would line up to take photos, share a smile then continue parading through the city.
There is no telling what you will come across here in Shibuya. The costume ranged from Kawaii (cute), to Creepy, and even downright frightening in some cases.
Halloween for me, as a North American, has always been a relatively big deal, yet I had never come across the same type of meticulous and consistent attention to detail and genuine artistry in costume making as I had here in Tokyo. It was evident that the majority of street goers had put in real time and effort into their costumes, there was no last minute DYI-ing (or if there was it really didn't look like it).
The variety of outfits was incredible! Everywhere you looked had something, or I guess someone, new and interesting to transfix your gaze upon. Starved from all my street navigating I decided to grab a cheeky and quick McDonalds, and even here I was not disappointed by creativity of halloweeners. I saw a lot (understatement) of costumes and took way too many photos on Tuesday night, but I think by far my favourite was this one of the McDonalds girls' eating away. Something about this photo, and the costumes, just seems perfect.
It wasn't just the costumes that were hauntingly well done, but the people were all invested in their personas. There was this incredibly palpable emotional commitment that costume wearers had to maintaining there character. It was almost eery how evident this was, especially with those in more scary costumes.
Halloween in Shibuya definitely does not disappoint. There is immense variety in costumes, take the clever "salt bae" reference for example, that keeps observers constantly interested in the parades of people marching by. This really is a place to be on high alert, if you stop paying attention you can miss out on some real gems!
I've definitely never experienced anything like halloween in Tokyo, and I'm not convinced I will ever see anything that compares.
XX,
F.
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